When in Prague, visit Eska

Serendipity: some concept with an argument on reality. Yet, a fortunate set of circumstances made me believe in it for a moment. The time of a meal, the time to digest it, the time to travel through it.

When in Prague, and by accident in Karlin – the coming up neighborhood of the Czech Republic’s capital – and by chance hungry, and by some sort of crazy thought looking for a restaurant on Tripadvisor… Where “serendipity” is the title of a recent review of Eska.

Eska - Entrance

Lodged in a masterfully repurposed factory, high from its 6 months of age, the entrance shies away from view. Paradox: an outlet with a reimagined Flash logo, bright in red neon, and not a chance to stumble upon it by mistake.

Eska - Beef Tartar

The menu is as efficient as a group tour: 6 appetizers, 6 mains, 1 cheese and 2 desserts. Options are 5 or 8 courses tasting menu. All is inspired by what is available in the surroundings of Prague, with hints here and there of a chef who likes traveling and open wide his eyes and mouth. The bus driver takes you for a ride.

Eska - Chicken

He has a risk-taking attitude. Raw beef, chicken hearts, fermented cheese – not the obvious choices for a tasting menu and enough to put off the least adventurous.

Eska is not a restaurant, it’s a tour guide, it’s taking a bus through the countryside, through hills and fields, down a path made of soil, farms, grass. And they are all to be eaten.

Eska - Celeriac

Where can you go, travelling, and be inviting to eat the country itself – its hearts (chicken), its root (celeriac), its forest and pastures (mushrooms, garlic flowers, grass)?

Eska - Cheese

You cannot. Paradox: it’s in the renewed part of the city, the modern hotspot, that the old country is there to grasp.

As if you could bite the landscape through the train’s windows. I know I did.

Address: Pernerova 49, 186 00 Praha 8-Karlín, Czech Republic
Website: http://eska.ambi.cz/

Little World I

Little World is a series of photographs I take, which use Preiser characters at the Ho (1:87) scale. The “worlds” are other built with food and sometimes with other props.

The series is long due for expansion. Stay tuned for Little World II.